Three years after food media institutions pledged to do better, The Objective is publishing a series about the holes that still exist in food media — and what its future could look like when we look to its past.
THE FOOD MEDIA
In the summer of 2020, mainstream media organizations coast to coast — from the Los Angeles to New York Times — publicly, and messily, grappled with their histories of harm, systemic racism and pay discrimination.
Food media wasn’t exempt. Once a photo of former editor-in-chief Adam Rapaport in brownface was surfaced on Twitter by former staff, Conde Nast’s Bon Appétit Magazine leapt from the fire to the frying pan: A stream of BA Test Kitchen chefs, starting with Sohla El-Waylly, called out Test Kitchen’s pay discrimination between chefs of color and white chefs, and promptly left the organization.
But a “reckoning” doesn’t make systemic change. Food writers like Soleil Ho and Dan Q. Dao highlighted that food media’s systemic whiteness isn’t just about its staff, but about the recipes and chefs it celebrates.
Three years after food media institutions pledged to do better, The Objective — in partnership with L.A. Taco — is publishing The Reckoning in Food Media, a collection of reporting, essays, and criticism about the holes that still exist in food media — and what its future could look like when we look to its past. Read the full editor’s note…
Poet, educator and ¡Hella Hungry! creator Alan Chazaro reflects on coming to food writing as someone from outside the institution of traditional journalism, telling human stories through food and more.